Teacher Aboard Logs

Greetings from Hamburg, Germany!

We left the docks around 6 AM under clear skies. We motored out of the Elbe River and entered the Kiel Canal so we could take a shortcut across Germany to the Baltic Sea. From there, we sailed east and then north to Copenhagen. It was a beautiful morning, not anything at all like our journey from Bremerhaven!

The (Rough) Trip to Hamburg!

We left Bremerhaven Sunday, but moving all of the tall ships through the locks took up most of the day. Dusk arrived before we finally got on our way. Then we had to get out of the river, turn the corner into the North Sea, and make our way to the entrance of the Elbe. The wind and waves were at odds with each other.

By the time my watch began, it was starting to get a bit ugly. As I stood on lookout, I watched the bow of the ship rise and fall through a distance of about ten to twelve feet. Spray came over the sides and whipped around me as the wind blew it across the deck. I wondered just how bad it would get. As we turned the corner into the North Sea, the waves hit us on our beam (side) which added a twisting, rolling motion to the heaving we already had! I held on as the bow submerged. Hundreds of gallons of water were brought onto the deck, rushing past me to find a way back to the sea. I was feeling a bit queasy from the motion. I was determined not to let the crew see me ill, but sure enough, a half an hour before the end of my watch, I found myself hanging over the rail "chumming!" As it turned out, two other crew members were sick as well, so I didn't feel so bad!

The North Sea has a reputation for being a "cruel mistress," and we barely got a taste! Crewmember Chris Landers reminded me of something once said by the author Samuel Johnson. Loosely quoted, it reads, "Sailors are men who have not the contrivance to get themselves into prison, for being at sea is being in a jail with a chance of drowning.... He who would go to sea by choice would go to hell for recreation."

Although I don't agree, the reasons why some people would never go to sea are easy to understand. Understanding why some people love to set sail on the oceans of the world is the tricky part. The desire to conquer one's own fears and coexist with nature is a driving force for sailors. Some believe that we have not mastered our own selves until we have faced our biggest challenges and fears. Until then, we are only followers.

The weather finally eased up. The skies cleared as we entered and proceeded up the Elbe River toward Hamburg, and we had a great sunrise. Not having the company of nearly twenty other tall ships was an odd feeling as we came into the Hamburg harbor and made our way to the dock. The harbor is an interesting mix of marine shipping and businesses on one side and residential and shopping on the other.

As we pulled up to the dock, heads turned to see Pride II, but the fanfare wasn't there as it had been in the last two ports.

Cindy Dooley, the business manager from the Pride of Baltimore office, met us at the dock. She had flown over from Baltimore, Maryland, to deliver items necessary for the boat's function, including the crew's mail.

As you can imagine, Cindy was the most popular person around! Packages were opened, and crewmembers that received mail found quiet places to read.

Cindy was wonderful and had made lots of arrangements for the boat that made our arrival much easier. She invited me to join her for dinner the next night along with some friends who are teachers in Hamburg. What a perfect opportunity to learn about the Hamburg schools!

The next day was used up getting my pictures and logs together. We arranged for access to a computer in a nearby shipping office. By the time I'd finished sending my stuff over the Internet, it was 5 PM! The two teachers picked us up, and we had a lovely German supper. It was one of the most enjoyable evenings I have had so far. We agreed to stay in touch, and establish a connection between their schools and ours.

Shopping and Sightseeing in Hamburg!

One of the most beautiful structures in Hamburg is the Rathaus. It is similar to a town hall, but hundreds of years old. With spires and statues of St. Michael adorning the roof, it is indeed an impressive building.

I was able to talk a very lovely lady into taking my picture as I stood at a café across the square.

Hamburg has other interesting sites. Here we have the juxtaposition of two totally dissimilar objects. (Do you know that word? Look it up; it's a great one!) On the one hand, we have the dark and brooding statue of Bismarck who united the Germanic nations and had a battleship named for him.

On the other, we have beautiful gardens and floral sculptures such as this peacock.

Several canals lead to the lake in Hamburg. The canal boats wind their way through the city among the thousands of swans that float down the canals looking to be fed by the many tourists or Hamburg residents.

While I was sightseeing, the crew was doing last minute repairs and getting the boat ready for the early morning departure. The spud (a chunk of wood placed between the dock and the boat to protect the boat) had put so much leverage against the boat, that it broke the sheer pole. Wood had to be purchased, so Brad, the ship's carpenter, set off to find what materials he needed.

Meanwhile, the Captain had received the new forestaysail to replace the one destroyed while crossing the Atlantic. The crew was busy making all the preparations to hoist it up and get it placed just right. When the time came to "bend" the sail on, all available hands secured it where it's kept.

The rain set in during the late afternoon, and it continued to pour as the crew ate dinner. Afterwards, some went off for their last visit into the city, some went to bed, and I continued to type in my bunk and wonder what our next leg of this journey has in. When I find out, I'll be sure to let you know! Until then, safe passage, and may the wind be at your backs.

Your Teacher Aboard,
Lee Vogtman

YOUR THOUGHTS

1. Can you list the countries that border the North Sea?
2. When and where did Samuel Johnson live? What does the quote mean to you?
3. Have you faced any challenges or fears in your life? Are you a leader or a follower?